I did this very thing with my Al Mar Quicksilver. D2 blade steel on a titanium frame lock. If you choose to go this route, make sure you take careful note of how far over the lock bar reaches without tension on it once the scales are removed. You need a reference point in mind as you adjust it.

For my situation I made the adjustment, reassembled it, tested it, and had to take it apart a second time to get it just right. You certainly do not want to do this more than you must. It is still sticks just a bit but I figure it will break in properly from this point. At least now it is usable.

I am currently working on a Cold Steel Ti-Lite but I think it is just the tang and lock face that need to break in. I cleaned the surfaces and applied some graphite which made it usable.

I agree with the snapped open suggestion, I have a case knife that when you snap it open, the lock is much harder to disengage. I used a fine micro file and was able to reduce the strong disengagement .

I had these issues on a few of my Titanium framelock knives – not on these rather more expensive one where the “lockface” was heat treated though (Sebenzas, Spyderco Techno 1 & 2). These knives’ lockfaces are NOT carbidized but a proper heat treatment that will prevent them from lockstick.

I collect and use many high class folders (CRK, Spyderco, ZT, Böker, DPx Gear…) When I got my first DPx HEST/F Milspec I noticed there was some greyish compound/paste/goo on the blades root (=that part that contacts with the lockface of the titanium lockbar). Some models of the DPx Folders are notorious for lockstick and even “lock rock” (google it). — Mine was perfect – no bladeblay no lockstick no nothing – until I had to clean my knife and wipe and wash away that unidentified goo. The knife was produced assembled in Maniago, Italy by Lionsteel who definitely make great knives! (The newer DPx models “Urban” are made in the USA now). I contacted the Support of DPx and a nice Lady named Linda answered within one business day, telling me that the Italian factory uses LITHIUM GREASE. This stuff worked great and I just ordered it from Amazon. I can really recommend since it works and a professional production knife company uses this! Also they seem to use (but this info is not verified yet) sonething that at least looks like copper paste as the lubrication between the washers and the blade.

I own several folding knives (different brands and models) and I find that if I swing the blade open with a sharp snap that it is harder to disengage. They lock rather tightly when “snapped” open. When I open the blade with it’s flipper or thumb stud they lock just fine and yet are easier to disengage or close.